Wet Plate Collodion Troubleshooting Tips

Every wet plate collodion photographer, whether they are making positives (ambrotypes) or negatives, will run into issues and problems that may have you wanting to scream or pull your hair out.

I have summarized some of the most common issues that I have experienced in hopes that it may help you resolve a problem.

ISSUES & TIPS

1 – Hot fingertip marks on the plate (wear thicker gloves or use a suction cup stick)

2 – Dried out edges – get poured plate in silver bath faster.

3 – Loss of density – Overexposure causes loss of density.  For outside, use ISO 1 with my negative collodion.

4 – Clear areas show signs of chemical mottling – development time is probably too long.  Use the 1 throw/catch method for 30 to 45 seconds with the proper exposure.

5 – Clear areas show signs of chemical mottling when working outdoors – Cut development time in a warm environment.

6 – Developer Hot Spot on Pour Edge – do the quick single throw and catch method.  

7 – Specs like sand on the fresh albumenized plate – DO NOT use liquid egg whites.  Use one large egg white and mix to large peaks and then refrigerate overnight.  Remove peaks the next morning and filter a couple of times.

8 – Random/odd chemical fogging over the entire plate – this was related to the liquid egg whites.

9 – Light gray veil over the entire plate after using a new silver bath – When using a freshly excited silver bath with any type of collodion older than a week or more, the silver bath is too basic.  It needs 10 drops of nitric acid per 1 liter of silver bath. 

10 – Strange chemical mottling – try adding 10ml of glacial acetic acid (restrainer) to 50ml of developer and see if this tames the overactive developer.  This is a good test to confirm chemistry, but not a solution.  The additional restrainer will cause density loss, too.